Battle Abbey: A trip through time to 1066

November 11, 2023

A wooden scupplture of an archer on the battlefield

Was Battle Abbey really built on the spot where William the Conqueror defeated King Harold in 1066? Or did the battle actually take place on a local mini roundabout? Debate rages on, but one thing is clear – it didn’t happen in Hastings, and Battle Abbey makes for a lovely day out in the charming East Sussex town of Battle.

I was slightly on the fence about a trip to Battle Abbey – it’s an English Heritage property and we’re not members (I am all about value for money). Now I’ve been, I feel that you get quite a lot for your entrance fee. Most British people know the story of the Battle of Hastings, it’s something we learn about in primary school, it’s the subject of the Bayeux Tapestry, and it marks the last successful invasion of Britain (although the French most recently tried in 1797). It’s cool to have the opportunity to see the site of one of the most famous moments in the British history.  

View of battle through a leaded window
View of a chimney through a window frame

Exploring Battle Abbey part I – Gatehouse, Cafe and Visitor Centre

You can wander round at your leisure, but the volunteer handing out audio guides suggested the route we followed. The audio guides are a nice touch, but ours only worked sporadically, so we gave up on them in the end and just enjoyed looking round. First up, we headed into the gatehouse to enjoy the views of Battle and the surrounding countryside from the top, as well as learning about the lives of the monks who called the abbey home until the dissolution of the monasteries. 

Next on our route was the café, which was a bit chaotic on the day we visited, though when we finally got our food, it was very tasty. Alongside the café there’s a small but charmingly rustic playground if you’re visiting with kids. 

In the same building as the café, you can find the visitor centre, which was delightfully interactive. I took the opportunity to see if I could lift a Norman shield, but it turns out I need to keep working on my strength training if I’m going to travel back in time and join an army invading my country… 

My favourite part of the visitor centre was a video which laid out the pros and cons of Harold and William’s claim to the English throne – we then chose whose claim we thought was strongest. It was a fun and slightly more intellectual interactive activity than I’d expected. 

Black and white image of Battle Abbey gatehouse
View of a roof and surrounding countryside

Walking the Battlefield

Next up was the 1066 battlefield walk – this takes about an hour, although there is a 15-20 minute accessible walk you can do instead. If you can do the full walk, I’d recommend it, because it was a highlight of the trip for us (along with the visitor centre). Scattered along the walk are the large wooden sculptures depicting soldiers taking part in the battle. Something about seeing them set out on their own in the landscape made the events that took place there feel so much more real to me. It was unexpectedly poignant. 

Exploring Battle Abbey part II – ruins, gardens and an ice house

Both the walks take you up to the ruined abbey, which Hello Sussex list as one of their favourite things to see when visiting. Our trip took place during a heatwave in July, and we were flagging by this point, but it was fun to walk through some of the rooms the monks would have lived in. I found the ceilings very aesthetically pleasing. 

After enjoying the cool stone rooms of the abbey, we ventured out into the sun and the walled garden to find another cool spot – the very hobbit-esque ice house. This would have stored ice from a local lake, and you can go inside. While it was lovely and cool, it was also a chance to test the limits of my claustrophobia, and I was almost pleased to get back out in the sun. 

Finally as you walk back round to the gatehouse, you can see the stone laid in the spot where William believed Harold fell during the battle. He built the abbey as an act of penance, but of course it’s also a handy memorial of his victory. 

Ribbed ceilings of the abbey dormitories
Stone commemorating the local bonfire society

Practicalities

Price: English Heritage members get in free, otherwise prices are: adults £14 / children £8.50 / concessions £12.50 / Families with 2 adults and up to 3 children £36.50 / Families with 1 adult and up to 3 children £22.50. You can get 10% off if you book online in advance. 

Opening Times: Check the English Heritage website before you visit, as Battle Abbey is only open certain days of the week, and in the winter only appears to be open at the weekend. Additionally there is a re-enactment of the battle once a year, although extra fees apply, and you’ll need to book in advance. 

Parking: There is parking at the abbey which is free for English Heritage members, but £4 for non-members. This will cover your parking for the day though, so once you’ve finished in the abbey you’ll be able to take time to explore the town of Battle, home to lots of old half-timbered houses and interesting looking independent shops. There’s also parking at the other end of the town, which we used, thinking it would be cheaper, but they’d increased the prices and hadn’t updated the online info, so we ended up paying the same (womp womp). 

Train: Battle is on the London Charing Cross to Hastings line.

Wooden battlefield sculpture of a soldier carrying a flag
Wooden battlefield sculpture of a soldier on horseback

Have you been to Battle Abbey? What was the highlight for you?

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